Sunday 20th August 2023 – Shetland Islands

Today we decided that we would explore the Northmavine area of the Island. Our B&B hosts told us that the B9071 was a more picturesque route to take rather than the main road and they highlighted for us the place that we could find a waterfall. Heading along the B9071 from Bixter to Voe, there were sheep wandering about all over the road. We passed a place called The Cake Fridge and the car park for the waterfall was just past it. We did take the short walk up to the waterfall with lovely brown water flowing over it.

Downstream river that we followed to the waterfall

Before returning to the car, we decided to take a walk back to the Cake Fridge. Here on the side of the road is a fridge with all kinds of cake you can purchase, with an honesty box, and a book to write what you had purchased. We bought some Smartie Tiffin (plastic box with 4 slices) with all of the boxes costing £6.50. Standing there, we had our first encounter with the blasted midges – loads of them all eager to bite after the windy day yesterday.

The Cake Fridge shop

At the end of the B9071, we rejoined the A970 and turned left. Soon we crossed into Northmavine at a place called Mavis Grind and there was a welcome sign on the hill as well as a sign warning of Otters Crossing! We continued on the A970 towards Eshaness eventually arriving at 11:20. There were some stunning views along the route, including Done Holm, an arched rock formation.

At Mavis Grind

The lighthouse at Eshaness is privately owned, but the views from the car park were stunning. We had a cup of tea and our tiffin before deciding to take a walk along the top of the cliffs as there were many viewing points. The sun was quite warm at this point and it was hot walking, a massive contrast to yesterday. You can see an off shore rock formation called Muckle Ossa – it could be seen easily in the beautiful sun unlike yesterdays adventure. We walked a total of 2Km along the coast line before retracing our steps. At one point we did see two seals basking in the sun on the rocks below us.

Arched Rock Formation as we drove to Eshaness

The stunning view and rock formations at Eshaness

We left Eschaness at 1:10pm and headed to Isbister. This was a little disappointing as the road just stops at a farm with a place to turn around. To see the cliff top views you have to park and walk, but the small turning circle was full of cars. Something of note when droving up the road to Isbister, was a plane fuselage (a Potez 840) next to a house. Turns out that it had a wheels up landing at Sumburgh airport in 1981 and was subsequently used as a fire practice aircraft. But when the airport was being developed in 2005, they offered the plane for sale for scrapping. Not wanting to see it scrapped, Duncan Feather purchased it and moved by road to his house in 2007 where it is being cosmetically restored. A strange sight to see in the middle of nowhere.

A strange place to find an aircraft

Returning down the A970, we took a left turn onto the B9071 and headed to Hamnavoe Lunna. Again, the road just ends at a farm with a small turning circle. This time we could have parked, but a tourist parked there said the path for walking was very boggy and undefined, made worse by the invasion of midges. We had only decided to take the road as it passed through Lunna where the Norwegian resistance had their headquarters in the war at Lunna House, organising something called the Shetland Bus from the location. The house is now private with only a small notice to recognise the importance of the building in WW2. We decided to take another tea break as we returned to the A970 by stopping at the ferry terminal at Laxo, where a small boat takes vehicles to and from the island of Whalsay. We arrived just as the boat was leaving, but the ferry terminals are good stopping places as they are remote and have well maintained clean toilets at them.

Rather than return directly we went via Brettabister and rejoined the A970 and retraced our route back to Brae to get something to eat. We stopped at Frankies, the most northerly fish and chip shop in the UK. Helen had Haddock and chips, but I had a battered black pudding sausage and chips.

Helen outside Frankies and our food.

We headed back to the B&B, but decided to visit Meal Beach that is next to the village where the B&B is. The lovely white sands and beautiful clear sea was so inviting in the calm evening sunset that I decided to have a swim. I got in at one end and swam along the beach to the other. The sea was 12.7 Celsius and very refreshing after a warm day. We returned to the B&B where I had a shower and we relaxed for the rest of the evening.

Meal beach and me swimming in the North Atlantic Ocean.

Today’s route and elevation profile. The elevation high point early on was at Eshaness Lighthouse

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